Nevado Ausangate Climb
The highest summit in the Cusco region and the 6th highest in all of Peru. It's a rewarding climb for those who are prepared to step up to the challenge on a 6000+ meter mountain.
The Objective
Ausangate is the high point of the Cordillera Vilcanota and one of the most significant Apus in the Cusco region. When looking south from Cusco, the north side of Ausangate prominently appears in the skyline. Its south-facing slopes can be seen from places like the popular Palcoyo Rainbow Mountain. The standard route follows the glacier until it reaches an ice wall called the "Shield." From the top of the shield, it ascends the southern plateau until the final summit headwall and ridge.
Trip Highlights
- Highest peak in the Cusco region
- Views into the Amazon basin and of Nevados Salkantay and Veronica in the distance
- You will likely be the only team on the route
- 3+ pitches of grade AI3 climbing
5D / 4N
6,385 m / 20,948 ft
Advanced
May to August
D
Elevation Profile
Distance
9.29 km
Total Ascent
+1,973 m
Trailhead
4,450 m
High Point
6,385 m
Itinerary
Cusco to Trailhead
We leave Cusco at 8am and drive four hours into the Cordillera Vilcanota to the trailhead, where we camp for the night. The rest of the day is deliberately unhurried — an easy walk to stretch the legs, equipment checks, and time for your body to begin adjusting before we gain any real height. This day also acts as our buffer: we can advance to base camp this day and save it as a weather day as well. The decision depends on each group and departure's weather forecast.
Accommodation
Camp at the trailhead
Trailhead to Base Camp
A short day. We walk roughly three hours on easy grass slopes to base camp, arriving in time for lunch. The afternoon is free for you to spend.
Accommodation
Base Camp
Base Camp to Moraine Camp
An early breakfast, then we start porting our gear up through the moraine for roughly five hours to high camp at around 5,500 meters. The afternoon is for final gear prep and rest.
Accommodation
Moraine camp
Summit Day
We wake around 11pm to eat and start the summit bid in the dark, roped and in crampons. The normal route climbs sustained snow slopes of roughly 40–45° through crevassed terrain, until we reach the shield where we'll climb approximately three rope lengths of alpine grade 3 ice. The route finishes with a long walk across the summit plateau to the final summit headwall. We descend the same way to moraine camp, then either sleep there or continue down to base camp depending on how the day has gone.
Accommodation
Moraine camp or base camp
Return to Cusco
We break camp and walk out to the trailhead, where private transport is waiting for the drive back to Cusco.
Accommodation
Not included
What's Included
Included
- Certified mountain guide or aspirant guide in training
- Private groups
- Group technical climbing equipment (ropes, snow pickets)
- Camping equipment (tent, stoves, group gear)
- Cooks, porters, cargo donkeys, arrieros
- All meals during expedition
- Private transportation
- First aid and emergency response management
- Entrance fee
Not Included
- International and Domestic airfare/buses
- Accommodation in Cusco (before & after expedition)
- Personal equipment (mountaineering boots, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, 50-75L backpack)
- Clothing
- Travel insurance
- Personal favorite snacks of your choice
- Rescue or evacuation costs
- Tips
Packing List
Don't Have Everything?
We can arrange rentals in Cusco for boots, crampons, ice axes, and harnesses, and advise on what is worth buying versus renting. Tell us what you already have and we will fill the gaps.
Frequently Asked Questions
From the Mountain
Ready to plan this climb?
Every departure is arranged privately. Let us know which mountain you want to climb, a brief note about your experience level, and when you want to start the climb.