Nevado Mariposa Climb
An objective for beginner to intermediate climbers looking to gain experience on steeper terrain, with spectacular summit views across the southern peaks of the Vilcanota range.
The Objective
Nevado Mariposa is an engaging climb for beginner to intermediate climbers who want to gain valuable experience on steeper terrain. It is also common to climb Mariposa as an acclimatization objective before attempting its neighbor — 6,385 m Nevado Ausangate. The summit features spectacular views of the southern peaks in the Vilcanota mountain range in addition to towering views over Campa, Caracol, and Puca Punta. After the climb, you'll be rewarded with an opportunity to bathe in the comforting thermal baths of the nearby village.
Trip Highlights
- Summit views of Ausangate and the Vilcanota range
- 6+ pitches of steep snow and ice climbing
- Easily combined with a climb of another neighboring mountain
- No crowds like in the Huaraz region
4D / 3N
5,842 m / 19,167 ft
Intermediate
May to September
AD+
Elevation Profile
Distance
10.66 km
Total Ascent
+1,581 m
Trailhead
4,330 m
High Point
5,842 m
Itinerary
Cusco to Pacchanta
Private transport picks us up in Cusco where we then drive four hours by mostly paved road from Cusco to Pacchanta, an alpaca-herding village beneath the north side of Ausangate. We will stay the night with our local host family. We spend the afternoon settling in and adjusting to the altitude. Our host family provides a hearty meal and comfortable beds before we embark on our hike to base camp the next day.
Accommodation
Local host family in Pacchanta
Pacchanta to Mariposa Base Camp
We'll wake up around 6am, eat breakfast, and then start hiking with cargo horses and arrieros. On our way to base camp, we walk through high pastures where we'll see hundreds, if not thousands, of alpacas. The afternoon at camp covers equipment fitting if needed and a route briefing with Nevado Mariposa right in front of us.
Accommodation
Base Camp
Summit Day
Wake up at 1am for a light breakfast, then depart camp by 2am. We hike along rocky terrain for about an hour and a half until we reach the edge of the glacier. From the edge of the glacier, we walk until our first pitches of snow/ice climbing. About 240 meters below the summit, we'll take a rest in a flat area before the last four rope lengths of sustained 55 to 70 degree climbing. From the top, the stout east face and east ridge of Ausangate are visible in addition to the whole southern Vilcanota. We descend the same way to base camp.
Accommodation
Base Camp
Hike Out and Return to Cusco
We break camp and walk out to meet our private transport for the drive back to Cusco.
Accommodation
Not included
What's Included
Included
- Certified mountain guide or aspirant guide in training
- Private groups
- Group technical climbing equipment (ropes, snow pickets)
- Camping equipment (tent, stoves, group gear)
- Cooks, porters, cargo donkeys, arrieros
- All meals during expedition
- Private transportation
- First aid and emergency response management
- Entrance fee
Not Included
- International and Domestic airfare/buses
- Accommodation in Cusco (before & after expedition)
- Personal equipment (mountaineering boots, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, 50-75L backpack)
- Clothing
- Travel insurance
- Personal favorite snacks of your choice
- Rescue or evacuation costs
- Tips
Packing List
Don't Have Everything?
We can arrange rentals in Cusco for boots, crampons, ice axes, and harnesses, and advise on what is worth buying versus renting. Tell us what you already have and we will fill the gaps.
Frequently Asked Questions
From the Mountain
Ready to plan this climb?
Every departure is arranged privately. Let us know which mountain you want to climb, a brief note about your experience level, and when you want to start the climb.