Nevado Huascaran Climb
At 6,768 meters, Huascaran Sur is the highest mountain in Peru and the highest summit anywhere in the Earth's tropics. The normal route climbs through La Garganta, the col between the south and north peaks. Previous glacier experience and acclimatization are necessary.
The Objective
Huascaran Sur is the highest mountain in Peru and the highest summit anywhere in the Earth's tropics, first climbed in 1932 by a German-Austrian team. In recent years the normal route has become much more difficult than in decades past. It is a mountain that commands much respect. The expedition starts from the village of Musho. Your first night camping is at the Huascaran refugio. Then, we port gear to Camp 1 near 5,300 meters. It's critical that we leave Camp 1 early to pass the Garganta before it warms. Camp 2 is at 5,900 meters and is located on the col between the south and north summits. At AD+ grade, Huascaran requires glacier competence, acclimatization, and a tolerance for objective hazard rather than hard technical climbing.
Trip Highlights
- The highest summit in Peru
- Views over the entire Cordillera Blanca
- Prep for higher summits
- Valuable glacier navigation experience
6D / 5N
6,768 m / 22,205 ft
Intermediate
June to August
AD+
Elevation Profile
Distance
18.5 km
Total Ascent
+3,768 m
Trailhead
3,000 m
High Point
6,768 m
Itinerary
Huaraz to Base Camp
We drive from Huaraz down the Callejón de Huaylas to Musho, a village located at approximately 3,000 meters below the west face of Huascarán. Arrieros and pack animals transport the group's equipment from the trailhead, while we walk for four to five hours through farmland and moraine to reach base camp at the Huascarán refugio, situated at 4,650 meters, where we will camp for the night. In the afternoon, we will fit our equipment, review the route, and take time to rest.
Accommodation
Base Camp
Base Camp to Camp 1
We walk through the moraine to the glacier's edge, where we rope up for the first time. From this point, the route ascends steadily on snow to Camp 1, situated at approximately 5,300 meters, safely positioned on the glacier below the icefall. We arrive early, allowing us the afternoon to rest and enjoy an early dinner before going to bed.
Accommodation
Camp 1 on the glacier
Camp 1 through La Garganta to Camp 2
Today presents the crux of the route. We will wake up early so that we arrive at Camp 2 by 9am, passing the Garganta before the day warms up. This ensures we’ll cross under seracs and over snow bridges while they are frozen. We arrive early to Camp 2 at the col between the south and north summits at around 5,900 meters.
Accommodation
Camp 2
Summit Day
We depart from Camp 2 around 1 a.m., moving through the darkness as we ascend the snow slopes leading to the south summit, carefully navigating between crevasses. The final section gently transitions onto the summit plateau. On a clear morning, the entire Cordillera Blanca is visible to the south. We retrace our steps, descending through the icefall back to Camp 1.
Accommodation
Camp 1 on the glacier
Descent to Musho and Return to Huaraz
We break camp and descend the glacier and moraine to base camp, where the arrieros meet us to carry our gear the rest of the way down. Our private transport will pick us up in Musho for the drive back to Huaraz.
Accommodation
Not included
Acclimatization or Weather Day
An acclimatization/weather day built into the itinerary in case we need it.
What's Included
Included
- Certified mountain guide or aspirant guide in training
- Private groups
- Group technical climbing equipment (ropes, snow pickets)
- Camping equipment (tent, stoves, group gear)
- Cooks, porters, cargo donkeys, arrieros
- All meals during expedition
- Private transportation
- First aid and emergency response management
- Entrance fee
Not Included
- International and Domestic airfare/buses
- Accommodation in Cusco (before & after expedition)
- Personal equipment (mountaineering boots, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, 50-75L backpack)
- Clothing
- Travel insurance
- Personal favorite snacks of your choice
- Rescue or evacuation costs
- Tips
Packing List
Don't Have Everything?
We can arrange rentals in Cusco for boots, crampons, ice axes, and harnesses, and advise on what is worth buying versus renting. Tell us what you already have and we will fill the gaps.
Frequently Asked Questions
Ready to plan this climb?
Every departure is arranged privately. Let us know which mountain you want to climb, a brief note about your experience level, and when you want to start the climb.