Nevado Caracol Climb
A 5,625-meter peak above the alpaca-herding village of Pacchanta, on the north side of Ausangate. It was first climbed in 1957 and still sees a few ascents a year. It's only a four-day round trip from Cusco and features over 400 meters of 50-to-80-degree snow and ice climbing.
The Objective
Nevado Caracol is above the alpaca-herding village of Pacchanta, on the northern side of Ausangate, and was first climbed in 1957 by the same German party that made the first ascent of Alpamayo. This climb is ideal for strong beginners or intermediate climbers that want real mountaineering experience on a mountain that almost never has a set trail when we arrive. It only sees a few ascents a year and is one of the best climbs in the Vilcanota area.
Trip Highlights
- 400+ meters of 50-to-80-degree snow and ice climbing
- Summit views of the nevados Cayangate
- Seldomly climbed mountain compared to Huaraz
- Pass through the 7 lakes trail on the way to base camp
4D / 3N
5,625 m / 18,455 ft
Intermediate
May to August
PD
Elevation Profile
Distance
11.02 km
Total Ascent
+1,402 m
Trailhead
4,330 m
High Point
5,625 m
Itinerary
Cusco to Pacchanta
Private transport picks us up in Cusco where we then drive four hours by mostly paved road from Cusco to Pacchanta, an alpaca-herding village beneath the north side of Ausangate. We will stay the night with our local host family. We spend the afternoon settling in and adjusting to the altitude. Our host family provides a hearty meal and comfortable beds before we embark on our hike to base camp the next day.
Accommodation
Host family home in Pacchanta
Pacchanta to Base Camp
We begin the day with breakfast then hike 7.7km for about 3 hours, gaining roughly 450 meters to base camp near Campa pass where we'll setup camp at around 4,777 meters. Pack animals and arrieros (muleteers) carry the group equipment. The trail passes by the Seven Lake circuit hike — Azulcocha, Otorongo, Pucacocha, etc. In the afternoon we'll brief you on the route and do final preparations. We'll eat an early dinner, then go to bed.
Accommodation
Base Camp near Campa pass
Summit Day
Wake up at 11pm for a light breakfast, then depart camp by midnight. We hike along a marked trail terrain for about 30 minutes, then descend into the moraine to reach the base of the glacier. From the edge of the glacier, we walk until our first pitches of snow/ice climbing. About 120 meters below the summit, cross the bergschrund to the final pitches of 60 to 75 degree climbing. After enjoying the summit, we will descend the same way to base camp.
Accommodation
Base Camp near Campa pass
Walk Out and Return to Cusco
We break camp and walk out to meet our private transport for the drive back to Cusco.
Accommodation
Not included
What's Included
Included
- Certified mountain guide or aspirant guide in training
- Private groups
- Group technical climbing equipment (ropes, snow pickets)
- Camping equipment (tent, stoves, group gear)
- Cooks, porters, cargo donkeys, arrieros
- All meals during expedition
- Private transportation
- First aid and emergency response management
- Entrance fee
Not Included
- International and Domestic airfare/buses
- Accommodation in Cusco (before & after expedition)
- Personal equipment (mountaineering boots, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, 50-75L backpack)
- Clothing
- Travel insurance
- Personal favorite snacks of your choice
- Rescue or evacuation costs
- Tips
Packing List
Don't Have Everything?
We can arrange rentals in Cusco for boots, crampons, ice axes, and harnesses, and advise on what is worth buying versus renting. Tell us what you already have and we will fill the gaps.
Frequently Asked Questions
From the Mountain
Ready to plan this climb?
Every departure is arranged privately. Let us know which mountain you want to climb, a brief note about your experience level, and when you want to start the climb.