Nevado Chumpe Climb
A 6,106-meter peak in the Cordillera Vilcanota and the most prominent summit inside the Ausangate Regional Protected Area. Ideal off-the-beaten-path objective for your first mountain above 6,000 meters.
The Objective
Nevado Chumpe—pronounced Chumpi—is a 6,106-meter mountain in the Cordillera Vilcanota mountain range of Peru and the most prominent peak within the Ausangate Regional Protected Area (ACR). It is also referred to as Jatunriti or Nevado Huiscachani, depending on which local community member you ask and what side of the mountain they are from. The climb following the standard route is a straightforward route to the summit. It is the perfect objective for someone looking to climb a mountain over 6,000 meters in Peru with an off-the-beaten-path experience.
Trip Highlights
- Off the beaten path 6,000 meter objective
- Possible to see small herds of vicuña
- Walk alongside Laguna Sibinacocha
- Views spanning to the Cordillera Carabaya
5D / 4N
6,106 m / 20,033 ft
Intermediate
May to August
PD
Elevation Profile
Distance
29.55 km
Total Ascent
+1,878 m
Trailhead
4,900 m
High Point
6,076 m
Itinerary
We pick you up at 8am and drive southeast out of the city into the Cordillera Vilcanota. After about 6 hours of driving, we'll arrive at the end of the road next to Laguna Sibinacocha. Sibinacocha is one of the largest high-altitude lakes on Earth—around 25 to 30 km² of water at roughly 4,860 meters, over 90 meters deep in places, and more than 15 km long. Few lakes of comparable size exist at this elevation. It is fed directly by the glaciers of Chumpe and Osqollo Anante.
We break camp after breakfast and continue on foot along the shore of Sibinacocha toward the mountain. Pack animals and arrieros carry the group equipment. After about 5 hours of walking, we'll arrive at base camp and eat lunch. We'll brief you on the route, fit your crampons and harnesses, and go over general prep for the climb. We'll have dinner and sleep early.
Wake up 1am for a light meal, then depart camp at 2am. The glacier is a quick 10 minute walk from camp. At the edge of the glacier, we'll put on our helmets and harnesses and rope up for glacier travel. The skirt of the glacier is typically consolidated snow on moderate angles with route-finding through crevassed sections. Conditions vary year to year and month to month. Once we reach the col, the summit is only about another 150 meters away. After summiting, we'll descend via the same route back to camp.
Rather than retracing our approach to base camp, we'll walk northeast through the heart of the Vilcanota mountain range. The environment we pass through is a pristine display of rugged beauty, characterized by the effects of glacier retreat. We'll pass closely by Nevados Jatunhuma (Tres Picos), Cayangate, and Colque Cruz. About 7 hours of walking leads us to our final campsite with views of Nevado Ausangate.
We will eat an early breakfast and walk about 2 hours to the road where our private transport will meet us for our return to Cusco.
What's Included
Included
- Certified mountain guide or aspirant guide in training
- Private groups
- Group technical climbing equipment (ropes, snow pickets)
- Camping equipment (tent, stoves, group gear)
- Cooks, porters, cargo donkeys, arrieros
- All meals during expedition
- Private transportation
- First aid and emergency response management
- Entrance fee
Not Included
- International and Domestic airfare/buses
- Accommodation in Cusco (before & after expedition)
- Personal equipment (mountaineering boots, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, 50-75L backpack)
- Clothing
- Travel insurance
- Personal favorite snacks of your choice
- Rescue or evacuation costs
- Tips
Packing List
Don't Have Everything?
We can arrange rentals in Cusco for boots, crampons, ice axes, and harnesses, and advise on what is worth buying versus renting. Tell us what you already have and we will fill the gaps.
Frequently Asked Questions
From the Adventure
Ready to plan this climb?
Every departure is arranged privately. Let us know which mountain you want to climb, a brief note about your experience level, and when you want to start the climb.